Japanese Misoshiru is a savory but delicate soup that is an essential part of Japanese dining.

According to The Book of Tofu & Miso, 75% of Japanese eat miso soup every single day. Miso<<shiru (味噌汁) can be purchased pre-mixed in a packet or you can make it from scratch (We will show you how!). In Japan you can purchase freeze-dried miso soup that re-hydrates when boiling water is added; the resulting taste and texture is remarkably good. Although it is simple to make, the techniques for creating some of the basic ingredients require a great deal of technique, effort and time.

The soup base, known as dashi (出汁), is flavored with miso paste, bonito (skip jack tuna) flakes and konbu (昆布) seaweed. Not only is it a key ingredient in miso soup but it is found in an enormous number of other Japanese soups and foods. The base used for miso soup is called "konbu katsuo dashi" after its two main ingredients, konbu and katsuobushi which I will discuss below. Growing up in America, people learn there are four basic tastes; sweet, sour, bitter and salty. However, in 1908 Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda suggested there was a fifth taste which he called umami (meaning "pleasant savory taste"). Further scientific research backed this claim with the discovery of taste receptors specific to glutamate. Ikeda originally studied the konbu seaweed, but discovered that glutamate was found in a wide variety of foods including tomatoes, wheat, shell fish. soy, meats, and more. Ikeda also extracted glutamates from konbu and called his "flavor enhancer" "Aji no Moto" which we know as monosodium glutamate or MSG. Many Chinese dishes also use MSG, and while many non-Asian people claim to have bad reactions to it (headaches, flushing, weakness, etc.) and while the Mayo Clinic website claims "Researchers have found no definitive evidence of a link between MSG and these symptoms." Much like gluten, many food packages and restaurant menus proudly proclaim "No MSG". We will leave it up to the readers whether these adverse claims are warranted or simply marketing ploys directed towards the overly cautious.

Most people who make their own miso soup use dashi powder which is a ground mixture of bonito, some seaweed and often aji no moto (MSG). The addition of MSG to dashi power simply adds more umami flavor to the dashi, and is not used when making dashi from scratch. Adding extra MSG to dashi might be a case of gilding the lily.

Miso is fermented soybean paste, however it typically has other ingredients, most notably rice and barley. "White miso" (shiro miso, 白味噌) is lightest in color and mildest in taste, having more rice and a shorter fermentation than "red" (Aka, 赤味噌) miso. Due to its pleasing color and delicate taste, shiro miso is preferred for miso soup, but some recipes (particularly English-language recipes) call for the stronger tasting variety. Miso has a great variety of uses, but by far its most popular use is for miso soup.

While making miso requires little preparation on the part of the cook, the creation of the bonito flakes flakes, or katsuobushi (鰹節), is a long, involved interesting process. Fortunately all this is done for you, you just need to open the bag and use the amount required! Traditionally a skip jack tuna is beheaded, gutted, filleted and trimmed of fat. The fish is boiled for more than an hour and then the bones are removed. The fish is then smoked very slowly for 5 to 6 hours, then the fish is left to cool and rest for a day. This process is repeated for the same fish more than a dozen times, the total time being up to a month. The filets are then sprayed with Aspergillus glaucus mold culture and left in a cave (most traditionally) or in a cold room. This process draws all the moisture out of the fish and greatly concentrates their flavor. The mold is then scraped off and the process is repeated two to three times. The number of times this process is repeated determines the type of katsuobushi. If it is done three times it is called honkarebushi (本枯節) (true dried fillet). The most expensive katsuobushi is dried using this process for as long as two years. The result is a fish that has the same hardness as a very hard wood. Traditionally the fish is shaved with a Katsuobushi kezuriki (鰹節削り器), a wooden box fitted with a razor sharp blade. The shavings are pink in color, extremely thin and translucent. Katsuobushi is often added to other Japanese dishes and when they are sprinkled on top of hot dishes, such as soups, the rising steam makes the much-thinner-than-paper flakes "dance". It is a sight to behold and enjoy. However, if you add katsuobushi to your dishes, be careful because a little goes a very long way. Don't overdo it!

In addition to the bonita flavoring and the miso, a large piece of seaweed known as konbu is added to the stock. It comes in large leaves, you must cut it to fit in the pot. Good konbu has a whitish powder on it's surface. At least one Internet video suggests wiping this power off with a wet towel. That recommendation is suspect, the white powder actually is important to the depth of the taste. Most konbu is harvested in the cold ocean waters of Japan's northernmost island, Hokkaido. The home of katsuobushi is in the southeastern region of the main island of Honshu and there has been a vital trade route from Hokkaido to the south since the early 17th century.

Miso soup can contain many different ingredients, however, tofu, wakame (ワカメ) dried seaweed and Japanese enokitake (榎茸) or "enoki" mushrooms are, by far, the most popular. Tofu comes in soft, medium and firm styles. Perhaps soft tofu is the most traditional for miso soup, but this is really up to the preference of the cook. Wakame dried seaweed is true magic. Before it is added to the soup it is in the form of very small dried bits. A minute after it is in the soup it becomes a silky marvel that tastes great and has a very nice texture. When I didn't have any wakame, I've tried making the soup with spinach, and indeed some English language recipes suggest this. However, unless you have a miso soup emergency (Heaven forbid!), resist this idea as the results will pale in comparison to the real stuff.

The last ingredient is enoki mushrooms, which are sold in a bunch. Their stems are long and thin and their heads are small as a green pea. They have a delicate taste and texture. Other mushrooms can be substituted, but results may be less desirable.

Japanese cuisine is based on an esthetic that appreciates not only the taste of a dish but its presentation and texture. Good miso soup looks, tastes and feels like a work of culinary art when done properly.

All the ingredients for this soup can be purchased at Mitsuwa Market or any other Japanese food market.

Ingredients:

• 5 cups of water
• 1 ounce of konbu seaweed
• 1/2 ounce of katsuobushi bonita flakes
• 3 tablespoons wakame seaweed
• 6 level tablespoons shiro miso (white miso)
• 1/3 of a package of enoki mushrooms
• 6 ounces of tofu (half a standard package)

Cook's note: Unfortunately, most of the ingredients for this recipe are sold in amounts that are much more than needed for this recipe which serves 6. The konbu, katsuobushi, wakame and the miso keep very well, but the mushrooms and tofu should be used within a week's time to avoid spoilage. Usually (not always) tofu is packed in water and must be refrigerated after the package is open. Tofu will last considerably longer if you store it in water and change the water daily. Please note that this recipe generally has more solid ingredients (wakame, enoki and tofu) than might be typical for traditional miso soup which is generally more brothy.

Preparation:

Cook's note: Temperature and time are very important to this recipe, miso soup should not be boiled.

1. Cut the tofu into 1/2 inch square cubes
2. Cut the enoki mushrooms in half (to the point where the individual stalks separate).
3. Add 5 cups of water to a pot and heat to the point that it is very hot to touch, but not hotter (about 110 degrees Fahrenheit).
4. Add the konbu seaweed and seep for 30 minutes. (Make sure the water doesn't get too hot).
5. Remove the konbu and save for a different Japanese dish or discard it
6. Heat the broth almost to boiling level (but not boiling) and add the katsuobushi.
7. After one minute, strain the broth with a cloth-lined (cheesecloth works fine) strainer into a bowl. Do not squeeze!
8. Heat the broth to almost a boil
9. Add the tofu, wakame seaweed and enoki mushrooms
10. Heat for a minute and a half (again, don't boil)
11. Serve in small bowls and garnish with a few small rings of scallions (green onion).

Itadakimasu! (a humble expression of gratitude, used before dining but also used in other contexts such as receiving a gift from an older person or an award).

Recipe and text by T. Johnston-O'Neill
Photo by Emily Johnston-O'Neill

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Our Recipe of the Month is for French Tarte Tatin, caramelized "upside-down" pie typically made with apples. It's origin and the best way to prepare it are in dispute; what is not contested, however, how absolutely delicious it is!

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Most English language sources for this recipe call for a batter made from cornstarch, although rice flour might be more authentic and is available in Asian markets here. The shrimp should be small, this is not a time to be using jumbo prawns! Some recipes also call for using dried shrimp (shell on) for a greater concentration of flavor. If you decide to shell the shrimp, put the water from this recipe on the stove, add the shrimp shells, boil for 2 minutes, and then strain the liquid. Let the liquid cook, and then use it for the batter. Another great use for the shrimp shells is to heat them gently in butter, and then strain and cool the butter which can be used with any dish you might want to add a shrimp taste to. De-veining the shrimp is up to your discretion. Some ukoy are made with head and tail shrimp that sit on top of the fritter, and in some the battered fritter is place on top of a small square of banana leaf and then lowered into the frying oil.

Sawsawan is the Filipino term for a variety of sauces, and such sauces are a important distinguishing feature of Filipino food.There are many varieties of sawsawan that go with many different dishes. Filipino professor, publisher, and food columnist Doreen Gamboa Fernandez has written that sawsawan is one of the ways in which Filipinos "indigenize" foreign foods that have become part of their cuisine: that is, taking an unfamiliar or new food and adjusting the taste to Filipino palates. She goes on to say that the relationship between the chef and the diner is not dominating. Instead the diner mixes their sawsawan to their own particular preference with the full assent of the chef who recognizes the diner as an active participant in the culinary process. So one way of serving ukoy is to provide all the ingredients for the sawsawan and let each diner mix their own right at the table! Fernandez's research and writings were less concerned with the question of "authenticity" in Filipino foods than "how dishes became Filipino," a scholarly acknowledgement of the syncretism of culinary culture and a process found throughout the world.¹

Ukoy is a popular street and party food in the Philippines, but it has made its way to restaurant menus as well. It is thought to have originated in Laguna, which is in the southeast part of Luzon. This area is also famous for their coconut cream pie called "Buko pie". There is considerable variation in the ingredients used in Ukoy, although essential ingredients are shrimp and mung bean sprouts. Some recipes call for adding small cubes or strips of tofu; others use carrots, squash, cabbage or even green papaya.

The anatto powder, from the "lipstick tree" bixa orellana, is used mostly to give the fritter a brighter reddish color. Anatto (or Achote) is used in many Latino dishes and was traditionally also used as a dye for fabrics and for lipstick. I would imagine that paprika would be a reasonable substitute, but there are many markets in San Diego where anatto may be found.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup small to medium raw shrimp washed and de-veined but with shell left on*
• 1 cup mung bean sprouts
• 1 cup sweet potato cult into thin sticks (julienned)
• 1 medium onion sliced thin
• 2 scallions finely chopped
• 1 cup rice flour or cornstarch
• 1/2 cup all purpose flour
• ½ teaspoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon anatto powder (also called achiote)
• 1 egg
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon ground black pepper
• 1 ¼ cups water

Sawsawan:

• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1-2 shallots sliced thin
• 2 tablespoon sugar
• ¾ cup white vinegar
• ¼ cup water
• 3 tablespoon soy sauce
• 3 small hot peppers sliced small

* It is best to use small shrimp in their shells. Sacrificing a bit of taste you can make this with peeled shrimp.

Preparation:

1. De-vein the shrimp, using the following method: Make a small 1/3" longitudinal cut in the shell along the back from the big end. With a toothpick, gently fish out the black vein clamping the vein between your thumb and the toothpick. Gently pull the vein out in a straight motion.
2. Place dry ingredients (cornstarch, flour, baking powder, anatto powder, salt pepper) in a mixing bowl; add egg and water and whisk into a smooth batter.
3. Fold the shrimp, bean sprouts, sweet potatoes, scallions and onion into the batter, mixing thoroughly to coat all the ingredients.
4. Fill a deep frying pan or pot with about 1 inch of cooking oil. Heat oil to 350 to 375 degrees.
5. With a large metal cooking spoon, scoop up about 3 tablespoons of the battered mixture and lower it into the hot oil.
6. Cook on one side for about 3 minutes; then with metal tongs or the metal spoon, gently flip over the fritter and fry for another 2 minutes. Work in small batches; do not overcrowd the pan. When finished, the Ukoy should be golden-brown.
7. Remove the Ukoy when it is golden brown and place on either a metal rack (preferred) or paper towels.
8. Prepare the vinegar dipping sauce by mixing all the sauce ingredients together and then pour the sauce into individual small bowls, one per diner.

Serve as a snack or with rice and a vegetable dish as a main course.

Tayo'y magsikain, Kainan na!

Recipe by T. Johnston-O'Neill
Photo by Shari Johnston-O'Neill

¹ Culture Ingested: On the Indigenization of Philippine Food by Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett.

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Chemmeen Curry hails from one of the most naturally beautiful, historically interesting, and culturally diverse places in the world. The recipe calls for shrimp, but a firm white fish could be substituted, and tofu might work just fine if you are a vegetarian.

In the country of India, the state of Kerala is known as "God's Own Country," due to it's stunning natural environment with tropical rain forests and a beautiful coastline. My family was incredibly fortunate to visit there in 2012, and we learned that Kerala has a lot more going for it than natural splendor (although it indeed has that). We stayed in Fort Cochin, which is Kerala's ancient port city that has been a spice trade entrepot for quite literally thousands of years. Kerala is one of the most culturally diverse places in India (and that is saying something!). There you will find Hindus, Muslims, and Christians living in relative harmony compared to other more troubled areas in India. When we got to Kerala, the first thing we noticed was that we'd arrived just before state elections. Looking rather out of place (at least to us, certainly not the people who live there) was an abundance of bright red banners and large posters with images of Karl Marx, Vladimir Lenin and Che Guevara. Power routinely fluctuates between a more left leaning than typical Indian National Congress and a less radical version of the Communist Party of India.

Fort Cochin is home to the Paradesi Synagogue, originally built in 1568 and making it the oldest synagogue still in existence in Asia. The original Jewish inhabitants may have arrived in Southern India following the destruction of the "Firs Temple" in 587 B.C,. and there is documentary evidence that more came after the destruction of the Second Temple in 70 CE. By one accounting, as many as 10,000 arrived in what is now known as Cochin. Still more settled some time in the 12th Century, and they are referred to as the Malibari Jews or the Black Jews. At the height of their community, they had build seven synagogues in Cochin. In the 16th Century, Ladino speaking Sephardic Jews arrived and established themselves, becoming known at the Paradesi (foreign) or White Jews. Still later in late 19th Century, Arabic speaking Jews also came to Kerala and were called Baghdadi Jews. These latter groups worshipped at the Paradesi Synagogue. Relations between the Jewish community and local leaders was complex, but mostly amicable; but the relations with conquering European powers (the Dutch and Portuguese) were far more tumultuous. With the founding of Israel, most of the Jewish population of Kerala emigrated to Israel. The young woman, Yaheh Hallegua, who sells tickets to tourists at the synagogue is one of the last remaining Paradesi Jews in the city.

Kerala is also one of (if not the only) surviving communities of a branch of Catholicism that once spanned all of southern continental Asia. They are variously know as St. Thomas, or Syrian, Nasrani, or Malabar Catholic Church. This branch of Catholicism was thought to have been founded by St. Thomas the Apostle in the mid part of the first century. It is believed that he established seven churches in Kerala. They are sometimes referred to as Syrian Catholics because of their close coordination with the Syrian Church between 496 to 1599 CE, although culturally they were far more Indian than not and rather independent in spirit. Nowadays they are referred to as the Syro Malabar Church. They more than three million strong in Kerala, and there are more than 200,000 living outside of India, the largest group being the 85,000 that live in Chicago, USA. All told, there are over 3,000 parishes world-wide.

One of the best things to do in Fort Cochin, is to visit the "Go Downs," the spice warehouse along the edges of the city's harbor. There you will find workers using ancient techniques for processing spices, along with merchants making deals on their iphones. There seems to be a nearly infinite number of different spices being loaded and off-loaded from boats and ships, on display for buyers and being processed by hand and machine. The aromas are overwhelming (in a very nice way). Other warehouses ship rice, and again there are a great number of varieties being sold and shipped.

Other highlights include taking in a performance of the elaborately costumed Kathakali dance dramas, where donning of costumes and putting on makeup are integrated into the ritual. The Kathakali drama consists of stories from the Hindu scriptural epics, the Mahabarata and the Ramayana. It's a tradition that dates back at least 1500 years and was originally a part of the cult of Bhagavathy temple festivals. Now performances are mostly done for tourists visiting Kerala. Some (all?) of the actors place a seed from the African Eggplant or Chandra Flower under their eyelids which turns the whites of their eyes blood red. Very Dramatic indeed!<

One of the sites to see (which are also a tourist fixture in Fort Cochin) are the 30-foot tall Chinese cantilevered fishing nets, which are rather photogenic. Although they are called the Chinese Fishing Nets, their actual history is only speculative. It is said that if you find the right one, the operators will snag a fish or two, which can be then taken to a local eatery to be cooked.

Another favorite pastime for tourists in Kerala are the houseboat cruises through the backwaters of Alleypy (south of Cochin). These houseboats are unlike anything you have ever seen. Originally used to transport rice and produce (the local name for them is Kettuvalloms), these are for all intents and purposes floating luxury suites that exuberantly embrace a tropical fantasy style. The boats move slowly through palm-tree and rice-field surrounded waters, and you can even rent ones that are "punted," moved along tranquil waters propelled by human powered poles.

And oh yes, the food in Kerala is wonderful. Although most of the cuisine is vegetarian, there are also many meat and poultry dishes to be enjoyed. Due to proximity to the ocean, fish is also widely consumed. Coconut palms abound in the Southwest of India, so this is a very important ingredient in cooking. Rice and cassava (tapioca) are the major starches consumed. Also known as the "Land of Spices," many dishes are highly spiced and tamarind is used freely to add a touch of sour to dishes. Chilies are also used in abundance. Not surprisingly, foods and food avoidances differ according to whether a household is Hindu, Muslim or Christian. Food is traditionally served on banana leaves. Kerala is also known for a banquet style of eating called sadya, a feast enjoyed on special occasions, featuring rice and a great number of vegetarian side dishes.

Our recipe of the month is Chemmeen Curry, otherwise known as Kerala Prawn Kerala Shrimp Curry. Whether you used prawns (generally from fresh water, bigger and having 3 pairs of claws) or shrimp (from saltwater, generally smaller and having only 2 sets of claws) doesn't matter one bit. To go along with the curry, we have a recipe for appam, a coconut and rice batter pancake that hails from Kerala. It goes great with any meal of the day, but is often eaten with fish curry for breakfast. Appam gets its slight rise from fermenting the rice for a day before cooking. Store bought mixes use baking soda to achieve rise. Appam is believed to have originated in Kerala, but many different forms of the idea are found throughout southern India. Appam is particularly associated with the St. Thomas Catholics, but the food historian and cookbook author Gil Marks says that appam was also a favorite of the Jewish community in Kerala.

he recipe requires a technique widely used in Indian cooking called "tadka" or "spluttering" or "tempering," the frying/roasting of spices and other ingredients in hot Ghee (clarified butter), adding them to a dish either in the beginning or end of the preparation. Tempering brings out the full taste and aroma of many spices. The trick is to add the spices and ingredients in the right order and watch them very carefully so that they don't burn. Fortunately tempering takes mere seconds. If you do burn the spices, throw them away and try again until you get it right. Remember the process takes mere seconds, so do-overs are perfectly ok!

Typically this dish is prepared in an clay cooking pot, but this is not absolutely required. There are some regional variations such as adding green mangoes or tomatoes to the dish while cooking. If you want a thicker curry, use coconut cream; otherwise use coconut milk. You can adjust the spices to your own preferences, as it's always fun to experiment! All the specialty ingredients can be purchased in an Indian grocery store like Cash and Carry on Miramar road.

Ingredients:

• 1 pound of medium size shrimp or prawns
• 1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger
• 1 teaspoon crushed garlic
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1 teaspoon Garam Masala
• 2 teaspoons turmeric powder
• 1 teaspoon chili powder
• 5-6 curry leaves
• 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon fenugreek (methi) seeds
• 1 tablespoon tamarind pulp or 1 teaspoon tamarind concentrate
• 2 cups coconut milk or cream
• 3 red chilies split lengthwise
• 3 green chilies split lengthwise
• 8 shallots
• 1 tablespoon ghee
• 1 teaspoon salt (optional)

Preparation:

1. Clean and de-vein the shrimp.
2. In a medium sized pot, heat the ghee until it is very hot.
3. Add mustard and fenugreek seeds until they sputter.
4. Add shallots, ginger, garlic, chilies, curry leaves, and saute until fragrant.
5. Add ground coriander, garam masala, chili powder, turmeric and cook 1 minute longer.
6. Stir in coconut milk/cream and tamarind.
7. Bring to a boil and then turn down to a simmer.
8. Add shrimp and simmer just long enough for the shrimp to cook through (about 2 minutes).
9. Serve with appam or rice.

Appam (Kerala Rice Pancakes)

Ingredients:

• 1 cup of appam rice
• 1/2 cup of finely shredded unsweetened coconut
• 2 tablespoons of Yeast
• 2 cups of Water

Preparation:

1. Soak the rice in 2 cups of water for 1 hour.
2. Drain rice after it has been soaked
3. Add rice, coconut and sugar to a food processor and blend it to a fine paste.
4. Add enough warm water (80^oF.)to make a thin batter.
5. Mix in the yeast.
6. Store batter in a warm place (80^oF.) for 8 hours or overnight.
7. Heat a non-stick small skillet (6") to medium high and very lightly coat with some cooking oil (coconut oil is best).
8. Ladle about a quarter cup of the batter into the pan.
9. Swirl the batter in the pan so that it covers not only the bottom of the pan, but an inch or so up the side of the pan (this is what creates the lacy border).
10. Cover the pan.
11. Fry the appam until the edges are light brown.

Additional notes:

1. You can use appam premixed powder, which also includes lentils.
2. If you use a premix, omit the sugar, but still add the yeast and wait until the batter ferments.
3. You can use coconut milk instead of the shredded coconut and water for either method of preparation.
4. Appam uses a particular variety of rice (known as appam rice), but any white rice would probably work fine.

Recipe: T. Johnston-O'Neill
Photo: Kathleen Johnston

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