Photo from the Complete Book of Indian Cooking

Kerala is on the Southwest coast of India. It is a hot and wet land of tremendous ethnic and religious diversity, forged out of its long and varied history. Earliest habitation dates back to at least the peoples responsible for the Edakkal Cave pictorial writings that may be more than 7,000 years old. For several millennia, Kerala has been one of the most important trading centers in the world. Before European contact, Kerala was ruled by a plethora of Indic empires including the Chera, Ays, Pandyan, Chola, and Rashkatraka. In a bid to take over the spice trade largely controlled by the Arabs, the Portuguese under Vasco de Gama established a fort at Cochin. Today the area is still known as Fort Kochin. The Portuguese were eventually expelled by the Dutch but in the late 1700s they were ousted by local Nayar (Nair) troops under Marthanda Varma. A short few years later, a series of wars between the English and the rulers of Mysore eventually resulted in treaties establishing the area as "Princely State" in British India. Subsequent uprisings against British rule were not uncommon. But western influence in Kerala was not limited to military, political, and economic engagements. Kerala is a land of great religious diversity. While Hindus and Muslims make up a majority of the area's residents, they are not and were not alone.

From perhaps as far back as 3 millennia ago, Jews were trading with India. The first wave of large scale immigration of Jews appears to have happened after the siege of Jerusalem in 70 A.D. A second large scale migration, this time Sephardic (aka Paradesi) Jews escaping the Inquisition, occurred in the 16th century. Both sets of migrants enjoy a great deal of freedom, power, and influence, although tensions did exist between the two groups themselves. The oldest Jewish grave stone in Kerala dates from 1269 C.E. Upon the establishment of the modern state of Israel, most Keralan Jewish families emigrated away from Kerala and now very few remain.

Kerala presently has a very large and active Christian community. Churches large and small are found far and wide and are variously known as Nasarani, Syrian, or St. Thomas Christians, as it is thought that St. Thomas himself evangelized Kerala in the first century. Up until the 14th century, the "Church of the East" was centered in Persia and its influence stretched all the way to China. Today, the last vestiges of this once great tradition are to be found primarily in Kerala.

These many historical, religious, and cultural traditions have left their distinctive marks on local existence. Other than the obvious differences in religious observations and traditions, and some differences in ritual and everyday dress, one of the most recognized differences are in food. With the exception of Jewish cuisine (although one can eat in the Menorah Cafe in the Koder House Hotel, the fare is not particularly Jewish), Hindu vegetarian food, and halal Muslim eats and foods that are associated with Christian Keralites can be found throughout the Fort Cochin area. The following recipe, which uses ingredients found in other Indian cuisines, is considered to be a Syrian Christian dish.

Ingredients:

• 2 pounds skinless boneless whole chicken thighs
• 2 tablespoons oil (coconut is best)
• seeds from 6 green cardamom pods (crack open, use seeds only)
• 6 whole cloves
• 1 stick cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 1/2 cups finely chopped onions
• 2 Thai chilies, sliced lengthwise and seeds removed
• 1 tablespoon minced peeled ginger root
• 1 teaspoon powdered fennel seeds
• 1/4 teaspoon turmeric
• 1 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 6 small potatoes, quartered (about 3/4 pound)
• 1 cup chopped green beans (2-inch)
• 1 cup sliced carrots
• 20 fresh curry leaves
• 2 tablespoons peeled and julienned fresh ginger
• 2 tablespoons minced garlic
• 1 can of coconut milk or fresh coconut milk (14 oz)
• 1/2 cup frozen peas, thawed

Preparation:

1. Rinse chicken and thoroughly pat dry with paper towels. Set chicken aside.
2. In a deep saucepan, heat oil over medium heat.
3. Add cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, peppercorns, and bay leaves to pan and sauté until fragrant (about 40 seconds).
4. Add chopped onions and sauté until golden, 10 to 12 minutes (if onion edges start to burn, lower heat).
5. Add chilies, minced ginger, fennel, and turmeric and sauté for an additional 2 minutes.
6. Push fried masala mixture to side of pan. Add chicken, folding each piece to double the thickness. Spoon masala over top and brown for 5 minutes.
7. Flip chicken to brown other side for an additional 3 minutes.
8. Stir chicken in the pan to mix well with masala.
9. Add 1 cup water and salt. Bring to a simmer.
10. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer until chicken is partially cooked (about 15 minutes).
11. Add potatoes, green beans, carrot, curry leaves, julienned ginger, and garlic to pan with chicken.
12. Increase heat to medium and return to a simmer, then reduce heat to medium-low.
13. Cover and simmer for another 10 minutes.
14. Add coconut milk and peas. Continue to simmer until vegetables are tender, 6 to 8 minutes.

Serve hot over rice.

Recipe adapted from the "Complete Book of Indian Cooking," by Suneeta Vaswani

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Pinchos Marunos or "Moorish Kababs" are Spanish tapas enjoyed in tabernas (taverns) throughout much of Spain. Tapas (from the Spanish verb tapar meaning "to cover") are snacks eaten between meals, usually along with generous amounts of wine. The origin of their name may have come from the custom of covering a glass of wine with a piece of bread or meat to keep insects at bay. There are innumerable types of tapas but they are not so much a kind of food as a style of eating. Often tapas are eaten whilst standing at a tapas bar conversing with one's friends and acquaintances. As free-flowing sociality is key to their enjoyment, tapas are not generally served in restaurants or at home per se, although some of the exact same dishes can be served as appetizers. The dish goes well with wine or port.

Although found throughout Spain, tapas are most popular in Andalusia, sometimes referred to as "Moorish Spain," as the area was for more than 700 years governed by Muslims. Despite this history, Pinchos Marunos might have been brought to Spain by more recent immigrants from Northern Africa. Ironically, present day Pinchos Marunos are usually made with pork, which is haram (forbidden) to Muslims. Chicken or beef can also be used with delicious results. While "all meat" kabobs are typical, cherry tomatoes, red bell peppers, and even fruits such as honeydew melons or grapes can be added for a taste twist.

Allioli, or garlic and lemon mayonnaise, is a very popular ingredient or accompaniment in Spanish cooking. While allioli is a bit labor-intensive to make in the traditional way (lots of whisking required), a reasonable approximation can be achieved using regular mayonnaise flavored with garlic and lemon juice. Pinchos Marunos can be eaten with or without a sauce like the saffron-infused allioli presented here.

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons chopped yellow onions
• 4 large garlic cloves, chopped fine
• 1 tablespoon sweet (preferably smoked) paprika
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper (or twice that if you have hot paprika)
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• 2 teaspoons drived thyme
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1 bay leaf, crumbled
• 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
• 2 tablespoons dry white wine (optional)
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 1/2 pounds of chicken breasts cut into 3/4" cubes (pork or beef may be substituted)
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation:

1. Combine all of the ingredients except the meat in a food processor and grind into a paste.
2. In a large bowl, thoroughly mix the spice paste and the meat cubes.
3. For best taste, refrigerate the marinaded meat for 4 to 6 hours.
4. If using bamboo skewers, soak them in water for a half hour prior to using them.
5. Skewer the meat. If you are adding other ingredients such as tomatoes or sweet peppers, alternate with the meat.
6. Grill over a medium heat on your BBQ until the desired doneness is achieved.
7. Serve as a tapas allowing guests to drizzle (or spoon, the stuff should be thick) the saffron allioli on top of the meat.

Saffron Allioli

Allioli, or garlic and lemon mayonnaise, is a very popular ingredient or accompaniment in Spanish cooking. While allioli is a bit labor-intensive to make in the traditional way (lots of whisking required), a reasonable approximation can be achieved using regular mayonnaise flavored with saffron, garlic and lemon juice.

Ingredients:

• 2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/3 cup canola oil
• 4 large garlic cloves, minced finely or crushed in a garlic press
• 2 large egg yokes
• 4 teaspoons of fresh lemon juice
• salt
• several strands of saffron

Preparation:

1. Pulverize the saffron strands in a mortar and then add two tablespoons of boiling water. Let cool.
2. Mix oils in a measuring cup that has a spout or pouring lip.
3. In a mixing bowl, mix the minced garlic cloves, egg yokes and lemon juice until they form into a consistent a paste.
4. Very very slowly (in a very small stream) add the oil to the mixture. It should emulsify while blending.
5. When thickened, whisk in the saffron and water.
6. Whisk in salt a little at a time, until the level of saltiness you enjoy is achieved.

Quick Way:
Crush the garlic in a garlic press and then combine all the ingredients above (except the eggs and oil) with one cup of your favorite mayonnaise.

Recipes adapted from Anya von Bremzen's The New Spanish Table.

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Filipino Pancit Bihon is a delicious, easy to prepare rice noodle dish perfect for a summer meal. Garnished with Calimansi fruit, the dish embraces the Southeast Asian culinary taste quartet of savory, salty, sweet and sour. Pancit Bihon is a quintessential Filipino dish made with meat, vegetables and thin rice noodles. For a vegetarian version, just leave out the meat or substitute tofu. Pancit means noodles and bihon (or bihun) are thin "vermicelli" rice noodles. As they can be cooked and prepared quickly, they can be considered a Filipino fast food. Noodles and the lore associated with them may have originated in China. Long noodles represent long life and Pancit Bihon are often prepared for birthday celebrations (sometimes they are even called "birthday noodles" in restaurant menus). There are as many variations of Pancit Bihon as there are cooks, so feel free to experiment with other meats and vegetables. Calimansi, which are used as a garnish in this recipe, are small citrus fruits that are sweet and sour. You can eat the whole fruit, rind and all. Their palate-cleansing acidity and dash of sweetness goes quite well with this recipe.

Ingredients:

• An 8 ounce package of Pancit Bihon rice noodles (obtainable at Asia grocery stores)
• 1/2 lb chicken breast (cut into strips)
• ½ package of Chinese pork sausages (sliced into strips)
• 2 cloves garlic (minced, pressed or crushed)
• 1 medium onion (cut into thin strips)
• 2 carrots (julienne cut)
• 1/4 pound of snow peas
• 1 head of a small cabbage (julienne)
• ½ pound of green beans (diagonally cut into small pieces); can substitute thawed frozen French-style green beans.
• 3 stalks of celery (cut into small, thin strips)
• 2 cups of chicken broth
• 3 tablespoons soy sauce
• 3 tablespoons peanut oil
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 3 scallions sliced thinly (for garnish)
• several Calimansi (halved or quartered) or lemon slices

Preparation:

Preparatory note: The onion, carrots, cabbage, green beans, celery, and meat (sausage and chicken) should be cut into short (2 inch), thin (1/4 inch) "sticks" (much like julienne). Another way to prepare the chicken is to boil it until tender and then shred it. Pork and shrimp can be added to or substituted for the chicken.

1. Soak noodles in warm water for 15 minutes, drain and set aside.
2. Mince or crush garlic and set aside.
3. Slice scallions thinly and set aside.
4. Cut up onion, cabbage, green beans and celery per instructions above.
5. Cut up chicken and sausage per instructions above.
6. In 3 tablespoons of peanut oil, brown the Chinese sausage in a wok.
7. Add in minced garlic and sliced onions to wok and sauté until onions are translucent.
8. Add chicken strips and continue cooking until the chicken is cooked through.
9. Add the chicken broth and all the remaining vegetables and cook for an additional three minutes, stirring constantly.
10. Mix in softened noodles, toss and cook until the broth is absorbed, but not too dry.
11. Add soy sauce, salt, and pepper to taste.
12. Sprinkle dish with thinly sliced scallions.
13. Serve hot with sliced Calimansi or lemon slices as an edible garnish.
14. Diners may add additional soy sauce if desired.

Based on a recipe submitted by Sherry Sebastian (her mom's recipe!)

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Hawaiian SPAM Musubi is a unique Japanese/Hawaiian fusion snack found just about everywhere in the Aloha state. SPAM maybe maligned on the mainland but it is a treasured treat in the Hawaiian Islands. SPAM's reputation has not been enhanced by the word becoming synonymous with "unsolicited email" in the digital world. Set your culinary preconceptions aside, try these, you are sure to like them!

The popular Hawaiian snack SPAM musubi can be found in local food markets in Hawaii. In its most basic form it is made from lightly flavored white rice and a slice of SPAM wrapped in dried seaweed paper typically used to make sushi. Recipes also include fried egg, teriyaki sauce, or furikake (a Japanese condiment consisting of fish flakes, seaweed, sesame seeds and spices) for added flavor. It's a simple snack perfect for when you are on-the-go.

Ingredients:

• 2 cups short-grain white rice
• 1 can of SPAM
• 6 tablespoons rice vinegar
• ¼ cup soy sauce
• ¼ cup oyster sauce
• 5 sheets sushi nori (dry seaweed)
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• furikake seasoning
• some wax or parchment paper

Preparation:

1. Cook rice in a rice-cooker or covered pot according to package instructions
2. When the rice is cooked, stir in rice vinegar and set aside to cool
3. Open the can of SPAM, remove it (punching a hole in the bottom of the can helps) and then slice the SPAM into 8 equally thick slices
4. In a bowl, mix together soy sauce and oyster sauce/li>
5. Coat the SPAM in the mixture soy sauce and oyster sauce and let sit for 5 minutes
6. Heat oil in a frying pan on medium/low heat. Fry the SPAM for 2 minutes on each side or until lightly brown
7. Cut nori sheets in half. Folding the sheets in hand and then cutting on the crease with a sharp knife or kitchen scissors helps.
8. Place a scoop of rice on a piece of wax paper. Using your fingers and the paper, press and shape the rice into a rectangular block the size of a slice of SPAM and about an inch thick (see photo)
9. Sprinkle furikake seasoning on the rice.
10. Top the furikake layer with a slice of fried SPAM.
11. Take the half sheet of nori and form it around three sides of the SPAM and rice.
12. With your hand under the wax paper, carefully flip the musubi over into your other hand(nori side down)
13. Peel the paper off the rice and then wrap the remaining free nori around the rice sealing the edges with a small amount of water. (note: You can purchase a "musubi mold" to make musubi, but it's really necessary)

Recipe submitted by Monica Emery
Photography by Shari Johnston-O'Neill

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