Ingredients:

  • 1 1/4 cup virgin olive oil
  • 1 lb of ground beef or lamb (omit for vegetarian)
  • 1 cup chopped onion
  • 1 cup long grain white rice
  • 3 scallions (green inions), finely chopped
  • 1/2 cup chopped sun dried tomatoes
  • 1/4 cup minced fresh parsley
  • 1/2 cup pine nuts
  • 16 ounce jar grape leaves
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1-2 cup of chicken broth or water (see recipe)
  • 1/3 cup lemon juice
  • 2 tablespoon chopped fresh mint

(Sauce Ingredients and Preparation Directions in Section Below)

Preparation:

Please note: the only real difficulty in making dolmathes is in finding a heavy flat plate that weighs down the dolmathes while they are cooking, figure this problem out before you proceed!)

  1. Heat 3 Tablespoons of the olive oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the yellow onion and sauté until translucent but not brown, about 2-3 minutes.
  2. Transfer sautéed unions to a mixing bowl and mix together meat, rice, 1/2 cup of olive oil, green onions, sun dried tomatoes, parsley, pine nuts, cinnamon, allspice, salt, and pepper. Set aside.
  3. Rinse the grape leaves in cold water to removes as much brine as possible and then dry.
  4. Add 2 Tbsp. olive oil to the bottom of a large wide pot making sure the bottom is covered completely covered with oil. Blanket with one layer of grape leaves.
  5. Place 1 leaf at a time, shiny side down, on a flat work surface. Remove stem. Spoon about 1 Tbsp of the meat and rice mixture in the center near the base of the leaf. Fold the stem end over to cover the filling, fold both sides of the leaf inward and tightly roll leaf toward pointed tip end. Repeat until either leaves or mixture is all used.
  6. Arrange and layer the dolmathes in the pot in such a manner that the top layer is relatively even and flat. Add the remaining olive oil, the lemon juice, and chicken stock, using enough stock to just cover the dolmathes.
  7. Place a heavy flat plate over the dolmathes to keep them from unraveling. Bring to a gentle boil, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 45 minutes or until rice is tender.
  8. Remove dolmathes to a serving plate and reserve liquid.

Meat Dolmathes are usually served warm and vegetarian ones are served cold.

Avgolemono Sauce Ingredients:

  • yolks from 3 large eggs
  • 1/3 cup lemon juice (from 2 medium lemons)
  • 1 cup hot chicken stock or reserved cooking liquid from dolmathes

Avgolemono Sauce Preparation:

  1. Separate yolks from eggs.
  2. Beat eggs vigorously until they just begin to get foamy.
  3. Continue to beat mixture and add lemon juice in a slow steady stream, continue beating for a minute.
  4. Add hot chicken broth or reserved cooking liquid and whip for another minute.
  5. Pour sauce back into the empty dolmathes pot and heat on low until steam rises, Do No Boil! Can be thickened with cornstarch.
  6. Let stand 3-5 minutes before serving in a side dish or spoon over dolmathes.
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Ingredients:

  • 2 cans chickpeas
  • 3 cloves garlic—chopped
  • 3 medium onion—chopped
  • 3 tablespoon olive oil
  • 2 medium potatoes—cubed small
  • 2 tablespoon chopped parsley
  • 2 tablespoon chopped cilantro leaves
  • 1 teaspoon marjoram
  • 1 quart chicken broth
  • 1 lb spinach—chopped
  • 2 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon pepper
  • 2 tablespoon cider vinegar

Ingredients:

  1. Saute garlic and onions in olive oil for 10 minutes.
  2. Add potatoes and stir fry for 5 minutes.
  3. Add parsley, cilantro and marjoram and broth and Add broth and simmer 20 minutes.
  4. Add spinach and olive oil and simmer for 3 minutes.
  5. Add salt, pepper and vinegar, simmer for 5 minutes.
  6. For variation, soup may be pureed.
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Fried Chili Eggs (Sambal Goreng Telur) are a delicious introduction to Indonsian cuisine as they entail many ingredients used in Indonesia and are savory, spicy, a little sour with a touch of sweetness. They are easy to prepare and absolutely delicious over rice.

Ingredients:

  • 3 eggs
  • 3 tablespoons peanut oil
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
  • 1 clove garlic, crushed
  • 3 teaspoons sambal olek or chili powder (sambal olek (or ulek) is available in most grocery stores in the Asian section)
  • 1/2 teaspoon roasted shrimp paste (aka trasi)*
  • 1/2 teaspoon laos powder*
  • 3 kemiri or Brazil kernels, finely grated*
  • 2 teaspoons palm sugar or substitute*
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 cup coconut milk
  • lemon juice to taste

* These ingredients are available at 99 Ranch Market and other Asian grocery stores.

Preparation:

  1. Hard boil the eggs, stirring them gently for the first 3 or 4 minutes of cooking so that the yolks are centered.
  2. Heat oil and fry onion and garlic until onion is soft and golden.
  3. Add trasi, sambal olek, laos powder and grated nuts and fry for a few seconds, crushing the trasi with the spoon.
  4. Add salt, sugar, coconut milk and lemon juice and simmer gently, stirring constantly, until thick and oily in appearance.
  5. Add the shelled and halved eggs, spooning the sauce over them.

Serve with rice either hot or at room temperature.

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Ingredients:

  • 1 1/2 pounds of chicken; cut into 1-inch cubes (may substitute lamb or shrimp)
  • 1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 5 whole cloves
  • 1 tablespoon mustard oil; for marinade
  • 5 cloves garlic; minced
  • 1 tablespoon cumin powder
  • 1 1-inch piece fresh ginger
  • 1 teaspoon turmeric
  • Fresh red chilies; julienned
  • 1 cup green peas
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 cup green onions; sliced
  • 4 tablespoon (1/4 cup) mustard oil (for cooking)
  • 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon powder
  • Salt to taste

Preparation:

  • In a large bowl combine chicken, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, one tablespoon of mustard oil, cumin, turmeric, salt and pepper. Toss well to coat thoroughly.
  • Marinate chicken for two at least two hours.
  • In a non-stick pan warm 4 tablespoons (1/4 cup) of mustard oil over medium-high heat. Saute fenugreek seeds in the oil until they turn dark. Add cloves and saute for an additional 15 seconds.
  • Transfer the coated chicken to the pan, stir well, and brown over medium-high heat.
  • Add garlic, ginger and red chilies to the pan and reduce the heat to medium. Stir-fry chicken until cooked through. Add water to moisten, if necessary.
  • Add green peas, green onions, and cinnamon, and stir for two minutes.
  • Add salt and pepper to taste.
  • Drain off any excess oil. Serve with stir-fried vegetables and rice or Roti.
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Sopa de Lima

Yucateca Sopa de Lima (Lime Soup) (recipe adapted from the Hacienda Teya version)

First, a little background on Yucatecan food.

Yucatecan cuisine, derived from traditionally Mayan fare, differs somewhat from what most people consider to be Mexican food. While some of the ingredients are common to other parts of Mexico, Yucatan cooking makes heavy use of turkey, venison, sour oranges (used in many dishes), and a predominance of frijoles negro, (black beans) refried or whole, pickled onions, annatto spice and the slightly toxic and utterly unique epazote leaves.

Corn, corn tortillas, hot chillies (incendiary habanero and the milder Jalapeno and other peppers), coriander (leaves and seeds), tomatoes, avocado are used as they are elsewhere in Mexico. Chicken, Beef, pork, capers, olives, rice, black pepper, plantains and vinegar are perhaps post-Columbian colonial imports.

Signature Yucatecan dishes include:

Panuchos: a tostada made with corn tortillas stuffed with refried black beans topped with shredded white meat chicken or turkey that has been marinated in annatto spiced sour orange juice. Other toppings include sliced avocado, sour-orange pickled onions, tomatoes, and jalapeno peppers.

Salbutes: a tostada made with shredded chicken or turkey, lettuce, pickled onions, tomatoes, avocado and jalapeno pepper slices.
Papadzules: Rolled corn tortillas with eggs and covered in pumpkin and tomato sauces. Oddly enough considering the rather common ingredients, somewhat of an acquired taste.

Cochinita Pibil: A marinated (in sour-orange and annatto) pork dish that is cooked in banana leaves, most authentically in a pit.

Poc Chuc: Pork marinated in sour-orange juice and garlic and grilled over charcoal. Typically served with tomato and white onion salsa, roasted onion and fresh salsa.
Pavo en Relleno Negro: Turkey in black bean stuffing and sauce. A rather complex list of ingredients go into this dish including "black condiment", epazote, tomatoes, white onions. The stuffing includes pork, beef, onion, sweet green peppers, hard boiled eggs, black condiment and epazote leaves.
And . . .
Soupa de Lima ("Lime Soup"): can be prepared in the following manner:
(serves 8 and can be used as a light meal).

Ingredients:

  • 1 pound shredded turkey or chicken breast (sometimes more, sometimes less)
  • 1 head of garlic
  • Pinch of oregano
  • 1 Sprig of fresh coriander
  • 1 pound white onions
  • 14 oz green sweet pepper
  • 7 onces of tomatoes
  • Oil (corn or canola if you are health-conscious)
  • 6 fresh limes
  • 2 quarts of chicken broth. (or water with a couple of bullion cubes)
  • A cup of tortilla chips (not Fritos!). (note: the more authentic way is to take four corn tortillas, cut then into 1 inch strips and fry them in oil)

Preparation:

  1. Cook the chicken along with garlic, oregano, coriander and salt in two quarts of water. When the chicken is cooked, remove the chicken from the broth and shred it with a fork or your fingers (by pinching off pieces with your fingers).
  2. Strain broth and set aside.
  3. Chop onions, pepper and tomatoes and sauté in a small amount of oil over a low heat until the onions are translucent.
  4. Add all of the ingredients above, plus the juice of four limes (more or less to taste) to a pot and cook for 10 minutes.

Serve in soup bowls over a sparse layer of tortilla chips and garnish the top of the soup with a couple of thin round slices of lime.

Feel free to experiment with ingredient proportions as in our experience, while the basic ingredients were similar in the several places we visited, proportions, savory-ness, relative abundance of broth vs. chicken varied quite a bit. If any of our vegetarian readers wishes to attempt a meatless version of this dish, we would be delighted to append it to this article!

Enjoy!

Cultural Notes: One unique dining experience in the Yucatan is to find restaurants or cantinas that offer botanas meals. Such establishments offer numerous free tapas-sized plates of many of the dishes mentioned here (and many more not mentioned) if you buy a beer, cocktail or some alcoholic beverage, however, one might even get by in some places with just an ice-tea or a soft drink. The amount of food served can be quite substantial, more than a meal.

Many Yucatecan eateries also offer live music ranging from Mariachi bands, pop bands to exquisitely beautiful romantic serenades that feature great vocal harmonies and outstanding guitar work. The capital city of the Yucatan, Merida closes down between 11am to 4pm, just about the only places that remain open are tourist shops, museums, restaurants and cafes. As the midday sun can be quite oppressive, it is perhaps entirely wise to do as the locals do, take a nap or enjoy a long relaxed lunch.

Presently, the US dollar is so weak that eating in restaurants can quite often be more expensive that a similar type meal in the U.S. Exceptions are botanas eateries, cocina ecomonica or the stalls that sell salbutes, panuchos and poc chuc or pulled-pork sandwiches (tortas) in the large outdoor and indoor markets. There can easily be a 10 to 1 price difference between food served in more mainstream restaurants and essentially the same (and in our experience sometimes better tasting) food found in the more humble and atmospheric market stalls.

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